Clarion call for brinjal: Mumbai chefs share easy recipes to turn the vegetable into a delicious treat

16 August,2022 01:14 PM IST |  Mumbai  |  Nascimento Pinto

Even though India boasts of mouthwatering dishes made from brinjal, it isn’t preferred among many people because of its texture and taste. Mid-day Online reached out to city chefs to share innovative recipes that include some Bihari flavours, another served on a tartine, and a traditional Greek dish too

Chef Ameya Mahajani at Balsa uses brinjal to create a delicious Aubergine Chettinad Tartine, which has sweet, sour and spicy, earthy, nutty and even Chettinad flavours. Photo Courtesy: Balsa


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Did you grow up disliking the moment your mother said she had made brinjal for lunch or dinner? It was followed by either skipping the meal or simply finding an alternative by ordering food. The vegetable which has a mildly bitter taste is not a favourite of many people because of its gooey texture after it is cooked, and the many seeds that accompany every mouthful of the dish, if made traditionally.

It can be said that brinjal enjoys the same status as bitter gourd (karela), when it comes to a list of the most popular disliked vegetables among people, among others. In fact, not even the many names like eggplant and aubergine that it is commonly called, can change people's perception about the vegetable which has a dark purple and brownish colour.

Surprisingly, this comes even after India boasts of dishes such as a spicy baingan ka barta, fried brinjals, begun bhaja among others. However, if one keeps an open mind to experiment with the dish in other forms, we think there is definitely a possibility of enjoying it in all forms. In fact, chefs feel there is a lot more that can be done with the vegetable especially if it is cooked properly or used to make an innovative dish. Chef Ameya Mahajani, executive chef at Lower Parel-based restaurant Balsa, explains, "The common complaint of people is that it is spongy, bitter and slimy but I feel all these are the result of improper cooking. If cooked properly, brinjal can turn into so many interesting elements for dishes."

Mid-day Online reached out to city chefs for innovative recipes that would help people fall in love with the vegetable again because there's nothing like rediscovering how to make a vegetable you know differently. They not only take the traditional Bihari chokha and convert it into a pakoda but also use the vegetable to make a tartine with the help of Chettinad masala, and last but not the least a unique and traditional Greek dish that will make your mouth water.

Chef Vinayak Patil takes his love for brinjal to create a delicious dish called Bihari Chokha Pakoda. Photo Courtesy: Butterfly High

Bihari Chokha Pakoda by Vinayak Patil, executive chef, Butterfly High, Thane and BKC
Litti Chokha is a popular dish eaten in Bihar and is a favourite among many people. While it is in eaten in a variety of combinations, Chef Vinayak Patil at Butterfly High, takes his love for brinjal to create a delicious dish called Bihari Chokha Pakoda, by making Chokha (mashed preparation) out of the vegetable. However, he does more and actually turns the traditional dish into a pakoda (fritter). He explains, "A famous Bihari Chokha with a rustic taste. It has a mixture of brinjal, potato, tomato and lot of spices stuffed in small size of bread slice, dropped in gram flour batter, fried and served with the Chokha mixture and green chutney." Isn't it just perfect for the monsoon season?

Ingredients:
Brinjal, big size 1 no
Tomato, medium size 2 nos
Boiled potato, medium size 2 nos
Coriander leaves as per requirement, finely chopped
Green chilli, can vary as per taste and finely chopped - 3-4 nos
Ginger, finely chopped 1-inch piece
Onion, medium size, finely chopped 1 no
Garlic, finely chopped 4-5 flakes
Salt as per taste
Mustard Oil 2-3 tsp

For Covering
Besan (gram flour) 3/4 cup
Asafoetida 1 pinch
Turmeric 1 pinch
Chilli powder 1 pinch
(Mix these ingredients well and keep aside) Small round bite-size bread slice - 8 pcs

Method:
1. Wash the tomatoes well with water and fill some water in a deep vessel. Set the water to boil. When the water begins to boil add the tomatoes in it. Cook the tomatoes in boiling water, till they become soft and tender.
2. Remove the tomatoes to a plate and allow them to cool a little. Then remove the peel of these cooked tomatoes.
3. Wash the brinjal well with water and make a cut at its centre to check if it is not rotten inside. (Do not cut the brinjal completely. It should remain intact at one end).
4. Now place a steel stand over the gas stove and lower the flame to low level. Place the brinjal over this stand and then flip and cook the brinjal till it is nicely roasted and becomes soft at the centre.
5. When the brinjal is nicely roasted then turn off the flame and remove it to a plate. Allow the brinjal to cool and then remove the peel.
6. Then take the boiled potatoes, peel and finely mash them for making Bihari Chokha.
7. Now take a big plate and place the cooked tomatoes and roasted brinjal in it. Then mash both the ingredients together.
8. Then add the mashed boiled potatoes to the plate and mash all ingredients together again to mix them nicely.
9. Now add finely chopped green chilli, garlic, ginger, coriander leaves and onion to it.
10. Add salt as per taste and mustard oil to the ingredients in the plate and mix all of them together.
11. Transfer the prepared Bihari Chokha to a dish.
12. Take the round bread and place Chokha in it, cover another bread on top. Press all sides. Then put it into batter. Heat oil on a medium flame, when hot enough, drop the fritter and fry until golden. Drain them and set aside and serve along with Chokha and green chutney.

Aubergine Chettinad Tartine by Ameya Mahajani, executive chef, Balsa, Lower Parel (West)
While Indian dishes with brinjal are not popular but not always a favourite, Chef Ameya Mahajani takes the European route while trying to convince people to fall in love with the dish, which is not available at the restaurant but is in fact, his own creation. Mahajani uses the vegetable to make a delicious Aubergine Chettinad tartine (a slice of bread with a sweet or savoury topping). He shares, "It is a versatile vegetable and hasn't got its due yet, except being used in Middle Eastern dishes and a few Italian dishes. It can be fried, roasted, grilled, pickled and hence I do so much with it. "The topping has all kinds of different sweet, sour and spicy, earthy, nutty and even Chettinad flavours. It will definitely take you on a world tour from France to Tamil Nadu all in one bite.

Ingredients:
Black Aubergine (brinjal big) 1 no
Oil 2 tbsp
Mustard seeds 1 tsp
Onions 2 nos
Ginger 1 small piece
Garlic 6 cloves
Curry leaves 15-20 leaves
Tomatoes 1 nos
Kashmiri red chillies 6 nos
Star anise 1 no
Whole black peppercorns 6 nos
Coriander seeds 1 tsp
Whole cumin seeds 1 tsp
Turmeric powder 1 tsp
Garam masala 1 tbsp
Poppy seeds 1 tsp
Cloves 4-5 nos
Fennel seeds 1 tbsp
Mace 1 nos
Big cardamom 2 nos
Coconut milk powder 100 gm
Coriander leaves 10-12 nos
Salt to taste
Lemon juice 1 no
Green apple 1 no
Cashews 7/8 no
Pomegranate 10-12 seeds
Sourdough bread 2 slices
Chévre (goat's cheese) 100 gm

Method:
1. Cut the aubergine into 1-cm chunks, put some salt and leave aside. After about 10 minutes, the aubergine will leave water, squeeze out the water, deep fry it till nice golden brown and keep aside.
2. Make some golden fried onions and fried cashews and keep aside.
3. For homemade chettinad masala, take a pan and roast the whole red chillies, star anise, fennel seeds, cloves, cardamom, mace, jeera, coriander seeds, peppercorns, poppy seeds on low heat, this will take 8-19 minutes. Then turn the heat off, cool down the mixture and grind into a coarse powder and keep aside.
4. In a kadhai, heat oil, add in the curry leaves and mustard seeds, once they splutter, add in the chopped ginger and garlic and sauce well. Add in the chopped onions and sauté them nicely till translucent. Then add in 2 tbsp homemade chettinad masala, chopped tomatoes and let the masala cook fully and leaves the oil. Then add in the coconut milk powder, coriander leaves, salt, lemon juice and a pinch of sugar.
5. Once the entire masala is ready, get it off the heat, cool it down and then fold in the fried aubergine chunks gently. The aubergine Chettinad mixture is ready.
6. Take the sourdough slices and toast them either in the oven or on a pan.
7. Now, start the assembling. Put the underliner of the goat's cheese and spread it evenly on the bread. Gently spread the Aubergine chettinad mixture on the bread, sprinkle with fine chopped green apple and pomegranate seeds.
8. Finish with the cashews and fresh coriander leaves.

Chef Timothy Newton says Imam Bayildi can be a good option for vegetarians because it is wholesome and flavourful and yet unique to the Indian palate. Photo Courtesy: Opa

Imam Bayildi by Chef Timothy Newton, Opa, Worli
At Opa, chef Timothy Newton suggests trying out a traditional Greek dish called Imam Bayildi, which is made of roasted aubergine, caramelised onions, roasted pine nuts and yogurt. Loved by vegetarians, he says this dish appeals to Mumbaikars because it is wholesome and flavourful yet unique to the Indian palate. "Imam Bilyadi is a tempting option for vegetarians. The dish has the perfect balance of sweetness, sourness and spice. It is an incredible one plate meal that is very versatile and can be eaten alongside homemade pita and hummus," he shares, hoping to change your mind about the vegetable.

Ingredients:
Olive oil 100 ml
Aubergine (peeled and diced) 750 gm
Shallots (brunoise) 150 gm
Garlic, chopped 20 gm
Tomato sauce 500 gm
Red harissa 15 gm
Cinnamon powder 2 gm
Cumin powder 2 gm
Parsley, chopped 5 gm
Mint, chopped 5 gm
Dried mint 2 gm
Lemon confit, finely chopped 5 gm

For service:
Stuffed aubergine, half - 1 portion
Tomato sauce (warm) 30 gm
Pine nuts, deep fried 5 gm
Chili oil 5 gm
Parsley as per requirement
Mint as per requirement
Red onion salad as per requirement

Method:
1. Salt the aubergine in 10 gm maldon salt or any other regular salt, leave for 15 minutes and squeeze all the liquid.
2. Sauté shallots in olive oil and add aubergine, fry on high heat.
3. Add garlic, cook for 2 minutes, add red harissa and cook for another 2 minutes.
4. Add the rest of the spices and tomato sauce, cook until the mixture incorporates nicely.
5. Finish with fresh parsley, mint and confit lemon. Adjust seasoning.

For aubergine portion:
1. Cut one aubergine in half lengthwise.
2. Scoop out the white flesh, keeping skin intact to form hollow aubergine halves. Use the flesh to make a mix.
3. Season with salt and let it sweat for 10 minutes. Wipe dry with kitchen paper then dust with flour and fry till golden brown.
4. Fill this half with 180 gm of the mix.
5. Reserve for service.

For service:
1. Reheat stuffed aubergine in an oven at 200 degrees for 6 minutes.
2. Flash in josper for 2 minutes to get a nice color on top.
3. Plate the warm tomato sauce in the center of the serving plate, place baked aubergine on top.
4. Pipe out dots of garlic yogurt, drizzle chili oil on top then add fried pine nuts.
5. Garnish with pickled pepper salad.

Building on India's love for the condiment, celebrity chef Ranveer Brar makes a chutney out of brinjal. Photo Courtesy: Ranveer Brar

Baingan ki chutney by Chef Ranveer Brar
Indians love their chutneys and the best part is that every region has their own different kinds of chutneys. Building on this very love for the condiment, celebrity chef Ranveer Brar makes a chutney out of brinjal. Brar shares, "Baingan is an often understated and underrated vegetable. But, it's supremely versatile and is a part of and a base for a variety of dishes, both, in Indian and International cuisines. This chutney, for example, works as an interesting pairing for many dishes, the texture of eggplant being crucial for its consistency."

Ingredients:
Brinjal, big, chopped - 2 nos
Water
Salt to taste

For tempering
Oil 2 tbsp
Chana dal ½ tsp
Mustard seeds 1/2 tsp
Urad dal 1 tsp
Dry red chillies 3 nos
Curry leaves 1 sprig
Onions, medium, sliced 2 nos
Garlic, chopped 6-8 cloves
Ginger, chopped 1-inch
Degi red chilli powder 1 tsp
Turmeric powder 1/2 tsp
Asafoetida 1/4 tsp
Tamarind pulp 2 tbsp
Jaggery 3 tbsp
Roasted Peanuts 2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Sesame seed oil 2-3 tbsp

For Dahi and Baingan Ki Chutney
Curd 1 cup
Prepared half baingan mixture
Salt to taste

For Garnish
Sesame seed oil
Degi red chilli powder
Fresh coriander leaves

Method:
1. Firstly soak the chopped brinjal in salt water and keep aside for further use.
2. Then heat oil in a pan and add chana dal, mustard seeds, urad dal, dry red chillies, curry leaves and saute for a few seconds.
3. Now, add onion, garlic, ginger and saute for a minute and then add the chopped brinjal. Cover it and cook for 10 minutes on medium heat.
4. Remove the lid and stir. Then add degi red chilli powder, turmeric powder, asafoetida and saute for two minutes or until fragrant.
5. Add tamarind pulp, jaggery, peanuts saute for a minute then cover and let cook for 3-4 minutes.
6. Remove off the flames and grind it into a fine paste.
7. Remove in a bowl and add salt, sesame seed oil and mix properly.
8. Serve it in a serving bowl and garnish with sesame seed oil, degi red chilli powder, coriander leaves.

For Dahi and baingan ki chutney
1. In a bowl, add curd prepared half brinjal mixture, salt and mix everything together.
2. Serve in a bowl and garnish with coriander leaves, sesame seed oil, degi red chilli powder.

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