Minara Masjid: The abode of Sufi saints

How does one narrate the story of a shrine that has been the confluence of life and death? One way to do so is to enter the premises of Minara Masjid, a quarter-hour before sunset.

Upon entering, massive round dishes resting on the floor catch the attention of this writer. Since the afternoon, mosque volunteers or ‘khadims' have been decking these dishes with 'iftar' meals for those fasting. On the edges of the mazaar stand two-centuries-old arches and domes on ‘sutoon' or pillars, adorned in the signature shades of green and golden.

At one of the minarets, this writer spotted a muezzin (mosque official) gargling his throat; in a bid to give Azaan and summon worshippers for Maghrib. It being a typical Sunday evening, approximately 1800 Muslims have gathered at the historic mosque just in time to break their fast.

The answers to their sputtering sweat beads and nagging hunger pangs seemed to rise from the cool marble floors - beneath which lay the shrines of some of the most important Islamic figures in India.

Tombs of Sufi saints

Documentary photographer, Vishesh Kanani, sought special permission from the committee at Minara Masjid to capture the evening prayers and iftar from inside. Photo Courtesy: Vishesh Kanani

Trustee of Minara Masjid - Javed Parekh tells this writer: "The central floor conceals the tombs of two significant Sufi saints: Abdullah Shah Maudi Rehmatullah Alaih and Syed Muzaffar Shah Maudi Rehmatullah Alaih. Their ancestors migrated from the Arab region to India in the 19th century."

Javed Parekh - Trustee, Minara Masjid

Back then, Arabs regularly descended upon Bombay Island for trade and business ventures. Consequently, there arose a need for a facility where they could offer namaz and find a stable dwelling. Thus, they established Minara Masjid as a refuge for Muslim migrants (in the then-known) Bombay during the 1800s.

Islamic scholar Ahmed Quadri tells Midday: "Abdullah was famous for his noble deed of 'Dast-e-Ghaib' which implies that whenever a poor and needy person used to approach him, he would help them by giving a Rs10 note from his pocket."

He adds, "Syed Muzaffar Shah Maudi Rehmatullah Alaih arrived in Bombay via Gujarat. His emphasis on love, peace and devotion to God attracted followers seeking a more experiential approach to spirituality, beyond the rituals of mainstream Islam."

Presently, Minara Masjid stands atop the resting places of several Sufi saints. Within its premises, there are 21 visible tombs, with 9 located in the basement, 4 positioned near the dargah, one adjacent to the Burj, and 6 situated behind the mosque, informs one of the khadims at the mosque. The dargah below the mosque is open to visitors for a few hours in the day.

Fasting and feasting at Minara Masjid
The Minara Masjid Trust Estate and Properties were established during colonial times, following a High Court Order in suit No 28 of 1879. Since India gained independence in 1952, it has been registered with the Charity Commissioner in Mumbai under number B 331, informs Parekh.

The team convenes regularly to look after the affairs of the mosque. Nearly 1200 to 1400 people break their fast over weekdays during Ramadan. "One notable aspect is our in-house kitchen facility. All food preparations are conducted on-site, except food procurement. Fruits are sourced from Vashi, where we secure them in bulk at competitive prices, ensuring ample stock and cost-effectiveness," informs Parekh.

Devotees come from far-off lands to the Mohammad Ali Road for a myriad of reasons - business, travel or worship, and to find refuge along with iftar inside the mosque. Fresh fruit stocks are replenished weekly to maintain a consistent supply for the visitors of the mosque. Furthermore, all food items, including bajiyas, samosas, minced meat and cutlets, are crafted in the ‘bawarcha khana,' within the confines of the mosque.

After breaking the fast, a team of nine people promptly engage in a 5-minute cleaning session before the Maghrib prayers commences. Meanwhile, people head to the chashma or water spring to perform Wuzu or ablution which refers to a ceremonial act of washing parts of the body.

Also Read: Mohalla munch: Iftar food walk guide for Mohammad Ali Road in Mumbai

"Everyone lines up to offer the congregational prayer of Maghrib. Following this, they also offer taraveeh prayers which begin around 8:30pm," shares Parekh.
During the night, approximately 300 to 350 people gather daily for Sehri, which is arranged at 3 o'clock. The Sehri includes a variety of offerings, such as keema, non-vegetarian dishes, gravy, bread butter, toast and jam, ensuring a nutritious meal for all attendees.

Most of the food items for Iftar are prepared in-house at Minara Masjid. Volunteers at the mosque are sent off to source essential ingredients which are then cooked inside the mosque. Preparation for Iftar commences by afternoon and runs till before the evening prayer of Maghrib. Photo Courtesy: Vishesh Kanani

The mosque also houses a library on the first floor which is managed privately by the Islamic seminary Darul Uloom. Moreover, within the mosque premises, an orphanage for boys provides a space for learning and reading.

Sufism in 18th century India
Sufism has developed over many centuries and has adapted to the local customs and traditions of each country in which it has flourished, informs author Rana Safvi in her book: Search of the Divine.

"It, therefore, has many faces, and those who come in contact with it experience different aspects of it, depending on their understanding. For some, especially the uninitiated, Sufism is defined by its music or literature, while for others, it is defined by visiting the shrines. But those who have taken the oath know that it is much more than all of these things. Here's why people turned to Sufism:

Spiritual guidance: Sufi saints offered spiritual guidance and teachings that resonated with the Indian population. They preached a more spiritual way of submitting to God over a more ritualistic and orthodox means of practicing faith.

Accessibility: Unlike formal religious institutions, Sufi saints were often accessible to the common people. They lived simple lives and welcomed individuals from all walks of life, regardless of their social or economic status. This accessibility made their teachings more relatable and impactful.

Universal message: Sufi teachings often transcended religious boundaries and appealed to people of various faiths. They promoted universal values such as compassion, tolerance and unity, fostering harmony and understanding among diverse communities in India.

Cultural syncretism: Sufi saints played a significant role in cultural syncretism by integrating elements of Indian culture and traditions into their practices. This integration helped bridge the gap between different religious and cultural communities, promoting mutual respect and understanding.

Post iftar, the masjid floor is cleaned with soap and water within no time. The swift cleaning is done to ensure that the floor is ready for the evening prayer of Maghrib. Photo Courtesy: Vishesh Kanani

Social welfare: Sufi orders often engaged in social welfare activities, such as feeding the poor, providing shelter to travelers and offering medical assistance. Their commitment to serving humanity earned them respect and admiration among the masses.

Artistic expression: Sufi poetry, music, and dance became popular forms of artistic expression in India. The soothing melodies and soul-stirring lyrics of Sufi music, coupled with Sufi dance attracted audiences and deepened their connection to the spiritual realm.

With only three days to go for Eid, the land of one the busiest Islamic hotspots in the country is bustling with festivities. Amidst the iconic Mohammad Ali Road, patrons can visit Minara Masjid and get beguiled with the ornate Mughal architecture lying atop a graveyard.

Not only this, the architectural specimen houses a chashma or water spring, langar khana, dispensary, a rest house and a separate sewerage line. A mile-long stretch under JJ Flyover from Nagpada Junction to Minara Masjid is a complex maze but worthwhile for a spiritual reflection.

Also Read: Ramadan 2024: From Chutney Chicken kebab to Chicken Kathi Roll, enjoy delicious food in Vasai under Rs 500